Scroll & StoneThe Story of the Tribe of Israel - עם ישראל

Atlas · Nº 10

The City of Wise Men and Dyes

Samarkand is where the Bukharan Jewish world becomes visible as trade, scholarship and memory braided together.

Scroll & Stone 6 minute read Two registers, clearly marked

Jewish Cemetery in Samarkand today, with memorial stones in the foreground.
The Jewish Cemetery in Samarkand today. Akhemen, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Samarkand is one of the great Jewish cities of Central Asia without ever having been a Jewish capital in the political sense. It was a city of merchants, dyers, teachers and families who knew how to keep memory attached to the road. That is a form of capital all its own.

The Bukharan Jewish world gives Samarkand its real frame. The city is where trade and learning met, where a community could be both local and deeply connected to a wider Persian-speaking Jewish sphere.

A city already known in the Middle Ages

Benjamin of Tudela wrote in the twelfth century about a Jewish community in Samarkand. His figures are often debated, but the direction of the evidence is not: Samarkand was already part of a Jewish eastward world by the medieval period.

Later Bukharan Jewish life in the city made that presence durable. Dyers, merchants and teachers turned the city into one of the recognisable nodes in Central Asian Jewish memory.

12th centuryThe record

Benjamin of Tudela names Samarkand

Benjamin of Tudela’s medieval travel account places a Jewish community in Samarkand and treats it as part of the wider eastern Jewish world. It is one of the foundational written notices for the city’s Jewish history.

Benjamin of Tudela; Encyclopaedia Judaica

A photographed century

The modern record gets sharper in photographs. Sergei Prokudin-Gorsky’s 1911 image of Jewish children studying in Samarkand is one of those simple proofs that needs no embellishment: books open, clothes in colour, a city still carrying its Jewish schoolroom into the modern age.

That image belongs to a larger Bukharan Jewish continuity that moved from Samarkand into Jerusalem, Tashkent, Moscow and Queens. The city did not lose its people. It taught them how to travel.

Samarkand taught memory how to travel. The road never fully let go of the city.
1911The record

Prokudin-Gorsky photographs Samarkand Jews

In 1911 Sergei Prokudin-Gorsky photographed Bukharan Jewish children in Samarkand at their lessons. The image, preserved through major photographic collections, fixes the city’s Jewish world in colour and in ordinary life.

Sergei Prokudin-Gorsky; Library of Congress

Dye vats and open books

Samarkand deserves its place because it joins trade and scholarship without strain. The city made room for both, and the Bukharan Jews made a durable culture out of that room.

If Bukhara is the name of the wider world, Samarkand is the proof that the world had a classroom.

12th century
Benjamin of Tudela records a Jewish community in Samarkand.
Timurid era
Weaving and dyeing become central to the local Jewish economy.
1911
Prokudin-Gorsky photographs Jewish school life in the city.
20th century
Samarkand remains a central Bukharan Jewish node.
Today
The city lives in diaspora memory as well as in Uzbekistan.